Home Renovation Checklist

Nine phases in the order the trades actually have to happen, with a budget sheet and a long-lead order tracker.

About the job

What are you renovating?
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Note: Permit requirements, licensing thresholds and lien rules are all local. Confirm with your building department before assuming anything on this sheet applies to your jurisdiction. (Checked 2026-09.)

The order is the content

Almost everything that goes expensively wrong on an owner-managed renovation is a sequencing mistake, not a workmanship one.

Flooring before painting. Cabinets before the floor is level. Drywall before the rough inspection. Worktops ordered before the cabinets are set. Each of those is recoverable, and each costs somewhere between a day and several thousand dollars to recover from.

So the sheet is nine phases in the order they have to happen, and the useful discipline is simply not starting a phase before the one above it has finished.

Where the money actually goes wrong

Contingency. Fifteen to twenty percent on anything built before about 1990. The common advice is ten and the common outcome is going over. It is not padding — it is the wall that turns out to be wet, the framing that is undersized, the drain that was never vented properly.

The moment after demolition. This is when the surprises appear, all at once, and it is the single most important decision point in the job. Stop. Look. Photograph. Reprice.

A job that gets repriced at strip-out usually lands near budget. A job that absorbs the surprises quietly, one at a time, without ever revisiting the number, does not.

Changes. Agree in writing, before the job starts, how a change gets priced — and then actually price each one in writing before it is done. Verbal change orders are the largest single source of renovation disputes, and both parties genuinely remember them differently.

Do everything cheap while the walls are open

The wall cavity is open for about two weeks and then it is closed for twenty years. Everything in this list is nearly free now and expensive later:

  • Every outlet and switch you might ever want. Adding a circuit at rough-in costs almost nothing. Adding it afterwards is a day of work plus a wall repair.
  • Blocking for anything that will be hung — grab rails, heavy mirrors, wall-mounted televisions, floating shelves.
  • Conduit or a pull string to anywhere you might run a cable later.
  • Sound insulation between rooms, particularly around bathrooms and any shared wall.
  • Photographs of every open cavity. In five years you will want to know where the pipes and cables run before you drill.

The finish order, written out

Ceilings + first coats on walls    ← before the floor exists
Flooring
Cabinets and built-ins
Worktops                            ← templated on the installed cabinets
Tile and splashbacks
Trim, skirting, doors
Final coat of paint                 ← after the trim
Plumbing fixtures
Electrical plates and fittings
Appliances

Two of these catch people out consistently.

Paint before floor. Painting after the floor goes down means masking an entire finished floor and working slowly to protect it. It produces a worse job for more effort.

Worktops after cabinets. Stone is templated on the cabinets as installed, not from a drawing. Template, then one to two weeks of fabrication. That gap is unavoidable and it sits in the middle of a kitchen job — a kitchen with no worktop and a fridge in the hall. Plan for it rather than discovering it.

Lien waivers

Worth knowing about because it surprises people badly.

In most states, a subcontractor who was not paid can place a lien on your property — even if you paid the main contractor in full for that work. You can pay twice.

The remedy is routine and nobody objects to it: ask for a signed lien waiver from the contractor and each subcontractor with every payment. A professional operation has these ready. A reaction of surprise or reluctance is worth paying attention to.

Living in it

If you are staying in the house, decide in advance where you will cook, wash and store things, and seal the work area properly — plastic across the doorways, a zip door for anything running more than a fortnight, and floor protection on every route the crew walks.

Then cover or seal the HVAC returns in the work area. Renovation dust pulled into a return travels through the entire house and settles in the coil, which is a cleaning bill nobody budgets for. Change every filter in the house when the job finishes.

Reprice at the end of demolition. It is fifteen minutes, it is uncomfortable, and it is the difference between a job that lands near budget and one that does not.

Frequently asked questions

What order should renovation work go in?

Plan, permit, protect, demolish, structure, rough-in, inspection, insulate and close, then finishes — and within finishes: ceilings and first coats, floors, cabinets, worktops, tile, trim, final paint, then fixtures. Almost every expensive mistake an owner-managed job makes is a sequencing mistake rather than a workmanship one.

How much contingency should I budget?

Fifteen to twenty percent for anything built before about 1990, ten at the absolute floor for a newer house. It is not padding. It is the wall that turns out to be wet, the framing that is undersized, the wiring that is not what anyone expected — all of which appear the day the strip-out finishes and none of which can be seen before.

When do the surprises show up?

At the end of demolition, essentially always. That is the moment to stop, look, photograph and reprice rather than press on. A job that gets repriced at strip-out finishes near budget; one that absorbs surprises quietly finishes well over it.

Do I paint before or after flooring?

Ceilings and the first coats on the walls go on before the floor. Painting after the floor is down means masking an entire finished floor, working slowly to protect it, and doing a worse job. The final coat goes on after the trim, once everything that will damage a wall has been carried through the room.

Why do worktops take so long?

Stone worktops are templated on the installed cabinets, not from a drawing — so the template cannot happen until the cabinets are set, and fabrication takes one to two weeks after that. It is an unavoidable gap in the middle of every kitchen job, and planning for it is the difference between a two-week wait and a two-week crisis.

What is a lien waiver and do I need one?

A signed acknowledgement that a contractor or subcontractor has been paid. It matters because in most states an unpaid subcontractor can place a lien on your property even if you paid the main contractor in full. Asking for waivers with each payment is routine, professional, and the only thing that closes that risk.

Related printables

Work out the quantities first

On squarefootcalcs.com(opens in a new tab), a sister site — same jobs, from the buying-materials end.