New Homeowner Checklist

The first year in a new house, dated from your closing — starting with the few days it is still empty, which is the window most lists ignore.

About the house

What did you buy?
Roughly when was it built?
What does it have?
46 lines

Note: A starting framework, not a legal or financial to-do list. Anything involving your deed, your taxes or your policy should be checked against the documents you actually signed. (Checked 2026-09.)

The window nobody uses

There is a period — usually three or four days, sometimes two weeks — between getting the keys and the furniture arriving. Almost every new-homeowner checklist online skips straight past it to changing your mailing address.

That window is worth more than the rest of the first year put together, because a set of jobs that are trivial in an empty house become expensive or impossible in a furnished one:

  • Painting. The cost of painting a room roughly triples once there is furniture to move, floor to protect and a family living around it.
  • Deep cleaning. Inside the cabinets, behind where the fridge will sit, the tops of the door frames, the inside of the closets. You will not have this access again.
  • Photographing every room empty. Twenty minutes. It becomes your baseline for every insurance claim, every “was that crack always there”, and every conversation with a contractor.
  • Reaching the attic and crawlspace hatches before there is a stack of boxes in front of them.
  • Testing every shutoff valve while there is nothing under the sink.

If you read nothing else on this page: do the empty-house block. Everything after it can slip.

Find the shutoffs, then photograph them

The main water shutoff, the electrical panel, and the gas valve if you have gas.

Find all three, operate the water valve once to confirm it turns, and take a photograph of each with enough of the surroundings to locate it. Put the photos somewhere both adults in the house can reach without asking the other one.

This takes about fifteen minutes and it is the highest-value fifteen minutes in this document. The moment you need a shutoff, you need it immediately, in the dark, possibly while standing in water, and quite possibly it is not you at home.

While you are there, check the valves under every sink and behind every toilet. Old quarter-turn valves seize open. Finding that out during a leak is how a five-minute problem becomes a floor.

Read the inspection report again

You have already read it once, but you read it as a buyer deciding whether to go ahead. Read it again as an owner deciding what to do, and it turns into a different document.

Split it three ways:

Now       — anything about water, gas, electrical or structure
This year — deferred maintenance the previous owner was not going to do
Watching  — noted conditions that are fine until they are not

Worth knowing what an inspection did not cover. Inspectors do not dismantle anything, do not move stored belongings, do not test anything shut off at the time, and generally exclude the inside of the sewer line, the chimney flue above the firebox, and anything under the insulation. A clean report is a floor, not a ceiling.

The numbers to write down in week one

You will be asked for these repeatedly over the next fifteen years, always at a bad moment:

What Where to find it Why
Furnace make, model, serial Data plate inside the front panel Every service call and every parts question
Water heater serial Sticker on the tank — the date is encoded in it Tanks last 8–12 years. This tells you where yours is.
AC model and refrigerant type Plate on the outdoor unit R-22 systems are expensive to repair and worth knowing about early
HVAC filter size Printed on the edge of the filter Write it on the furnace in marker
Panel type and amperage Main breaker and panel label Determines what you can add later

Photograph the data plates rather than transcribing them. They are small, badly lit and full of numbers that matter.

Wait a year before changing anything structural

This is the advice most often given and least often taken, and it is right.

One full year tells you where the sun falls in July and where it does not in January, which room is cold, where water collects in a heavy storm, which door you actually use, and how the space gets lived in rather than how it looked on a viewing. Almost every renovation decision made in the first month is made without any of that information, and a good proportion of them get undone.

The exceptions are the things that are genuinely easier while the house is empty — paint, floors, anything behind an appliance — and anything the inspection flagged as active.

A year of Saturdays, not a weekend. The empty-house block has a real deadline. Everything after it is paced, and the list is more useful as a reference you come back to than as something you try to finish.

Frequently asked questions

What should I do first after closing on a house?

Change the locks and find the shutoffs. Rekeying costs under a hundred dollars and settles the question of how many keys exist. Locating the main water shutoff, the electrical panel and the gas valve — and photographing them — takes fifteen minutes and is the thing you will most wish you had done when something bursts at two in the morning.

Why does the list start before I move in?

Because the empty house is a resource with an expiry date. Painting, deep cleaning behind where the appliances will sit, photographing every room as a baseline, checking the attic before it fills with boxes — all of it is easy for about four days and then permanently harder. Most published checklists skip straight to changing your address.

The house was inspected before I bought it. Is that enough?

The inspection answered a different question: whether to buy at that price. Read it again as a work plan rather than a verdict, and split it into what needs doing now and what needs watching. Inspectors also disclaim large categories — anything not visible, anything requiring dismantling — so the report is a floor, not a ceiling.

How much should I budget for maintenance in the first year?

The common rule is one percent of the purchase price per year. It is rough, it is probably low for anything built before 1990, and the first year is usually above average because you are catching up on whatever the previous owner deferred while selling.

Should I renovate straight away?

Live through one of every season first if you can. A year tells you where the sun lands in July, which room is cold in January, where water collects in a storm and how the house is actually used. Renovation decisions made in the first month are made without any of that.

Does this work for a condo?

Set the property type to condo and the list drops the survey, the grading, the sewer cleanout and the exterior. What is left — locks, shutoffs, alarms, panel mapping, the empty-apartment window, the insurance review — still applies, and the shutoff question matters more in a condo, not less, because your leak is someone else’s ceiling.

Related printables

Work out the quantities first

On squarefootcalcs.com(opens in a new tab), a sister site — same jobs, from the buying-materials end.