Home Inventory List for Insurance

A room-by-room contents inventory with serial number columns, the prompts people forget, and a page for checking your policy sub-limits.

What to include

Sections
Jewellery, tools and collections are separate sections because they have separate policy limits.
Bedrooms
2
Lines per section
10
82 lines

Note: Sub-limits and valuation rules are set by your own policy and vary widely. Use this to build the list, then read your declarations page — the numbers that matter are the ones on it. (Checked 2026-09.)

The insurer pays for what you can list

That sentence is the whole reason this page exists.

After a fire or a theft, the claim process is not an argument about what you owned. It is a request for a list, and then a negotiation over the items on that list. Everything you cannot recall is simply not part of the conversation.

What people recall is consistent: the television, the laptop, the sofa. What they forget is also consistent, and it is worth more than what they remember —

  • Every small appliance in the kitchen, individually
  • The contents of the linen closet
  • A garage of power tools, which adds up faster than anything else in a house
  • Clothing, which is worth several thousand dollars in most households
  • Everything in the loft, the basement and the boxes at the back of the closet

Video first, then the sheet

The most efficient method is not writing.

Walk the house with a phone camera, narrating, and open everything — every cupboard, drawer, wardrobe and closet, plus the garage and any storage. Ten minutes of video captures more than an hour of writing, it timestamps itself, and it is far more persuasive to an adjuster than a typed list.

Then use the printed sheet for what video cannot do: serial numbers, model numbers, purchase dates and values against specific items.

Both together take an afternoon. Neither alone is enough.

Sub-limits are where people get caught

This is the part most people do not know, and it is the most valuable thing on this page.

A contents policy usually has one overall limit — and then separate, much lower caps on specific categories:

Category Commonly capped at Why it matters
Jewellery (theft) Often $1,000–$2,500 total Not per item. Total.
Collections, coins, stamps Own limit Frequently far below value
Cameras, instruments Own limit Photographers and musicians are routinely under-covered
Firearms Own limit Usually low
Tools used for business Own limit or excluded A working tradesperson’s garage is not general contents
Cash A few hundred dollars Effectively nominal

You can be fully insured overall and still recover a fraction of what a category was worth. Anything above a sub-limit needs scheduling separately, usually with an appraisal — which costs money, and is worth it exactly once you know the gap exists.

The totals table at the end of the sheet is for that comparison. Add up each category, then read your declarations page and write the limit beside it.

Replacement cost or actual cash value

Worth checking, because it is often the largest gap in a household’s cover and it is one line on the declarations page.

Replacement cost pays what a new equivalent costs today. Actual cash value pays what your ten-year-old sofa and eight-year-old laptop were worth on the day before the fire — which, for the depreciating things that make up most of a household, is a small fraction of replacing them.

If your policy is actual cash value, the inventory becomes more important rather than less, because the age and purchase price of each item is what the calculation runs on.

Do not list every sock

The reason inventories get abandoned on day three is that people try to itemise clothing.

Count by category: twelve pairs of shoes, four coats, roughly forty shirts. That is a claimable figure and an adjuster will work with it. Itemising a wardrobe is not, and it is where the whole project dies.

Reserve the detailed lines for things with a make, a model and a serial number.

Keep it somewhere else

An inventory stored in the house it documents has helped nobody.

Cloud storage, a copy emailed to yourself, a copy with a relative, or all three. Photographs of the sheets are fine — this is a case where a phone photo of a filled-in page is genuinely as good as the page.

Then update it once a year. The maintenance list has a January line for exactly that, because the natural time is when the policy renews.

Do the garage even if you do nothing else. It is the room with the largest gap between what people estimate and what is actually in it, and tools are the category most often quietly limited by a policy.

Frequently asked questions

Why do I need a home inventory?

Because after a fire or a burglary, an insurer pays for what you can document, not for what you owned. People reliably remember the television and forget eleven hundred dollars of tools in the garage, the contents of the linen closet and every small appliance in the kitchen. The list is what turns those into a payment.

What is the fastest way to do it?

Walk the house with a phone camera, narrating, opening every cupboard, drawer and closet as you go. Ten minutes of video captures far more than an hour of writing, and it is timestamped. Then use the printed sheet for the things that need a serial number or a value written against them, which is what video alone cannot give you.

What are policy sub-limits, and why does the sheet ask about them?

Most contents policies cap certain categories well below the overall limit — jewellery theft is often capped at one or two thousand dollars in total, and collections, cameras, instruments, firearms and business tools frequently have their own caps. You can be fully insured overall and still recover a fraction on the category that mattered. Comparing your totals against those caps is the single most useful thing this exercise produces.

Should I record serial numbers?

For anything electronic, mechanical or worth stealing, yes. Serial numbers are what police work from when property is recovered and what insurers ask for on higher-value items. Photograph the number itself rather than transcribing it — they are long, and a digit wrong makes it useless.

Replacement cost or actual cash value?

They are very different and it is worth knowing which you have. Replacement cost pays what a new equivalent costs today; actual cash value pays what your ten-year-old sofa was worth, which is very little. Your declarations page says which, and for contents the difference is often the largest single gap in a household’s cover.

Where should I keep it?

Not in the house it documents. Cloud storage, a copy emailed to yourself, or a copy with a relative. An inventory that burned with the building has helped nobody, and this is a genuinely common way the whole exercise gets wasted.

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