Fall Home Maintenance Checklist

Everything to do before winter, ordered by deadline and dated backwards from the first hard freeze where you live.

Set the deadline

What do you live in?
How cold does it get?
What does the property have?
24 lines

Note: Freeze dates vary by a month or more across a single state. Use your own local first-frost date rather than the default, and treat the deadlines as the earliest sensible time rather than the latest. (Checked 2026-09.)

Why this list is ordered by deadline

Most fall checklists are organised by area — outside, inside, HVAC, yard. That is a fine way to write a list and a bad way to use one, because it hides the only thing that actually matters in autumn: some of this stops being possible, and it stops in a predictable order.

Contractors go first. Furnace technicians, chimney sweeps and septic pumpers are all booked solid within days of the first cold night. Everything on this list that needs someone else to show up belongs six weeks out, not in October.

Then water. Anything holding water outside splits when it freezes, and the split is usually in a pipe you cannot see. There is no partial credit here — the hose either came off before the freeze or it did not.

Then comfort. Caulk will not cure below about 40°F. Nobody reseals a deck in November. Work that is merely unpleasant in October is genuinely impossible in December.

Then the leaves, which have their own schedule and do not care about yours.

Enter your local first-freeze date at the top and the first two deadlines get real dates on them.

The freeze sequence, in detail

This is the part people get half right, so it is worth writing out.

1. Disconnect the hose            ← the one that matters most
2. Close the interior shutoff valve
3. Open the outdoor spigot and LEAVE IT OPEN all winter
4. Drain anything else outdoors: irrigation, rain barrels, pool

Steps 2 and 3 are a pair. Closing the valve without opening the tap leaves a sealed section of pipe with water in it, which is exactly the condition that bursts. Opening the tap without closing the valve does nothing at all. Frost-free sillcocks are more forgiving, but only if the hose is off — the hose is what defeats the frost-free design, because it prevents the tap from draining back.

A burst supply pipe inside a wall releases water at household pressure, continuously, until someone shuts off the main. It is the most expensive failure on this entire site and it is prevented by unscrewing a hose.

What your first-frost date is, and where to get it

The date the list works from is the first hard freeze — around 28°F — rather than the first light frost. That is the temperature at which standing water in an outdoor pipe becomes a problem.

It varies enormously. Northern Minnesota sees it in late September; the Gulf coast may not see it at all. Your county extension service publishes local first-frost dates, and they are more useful than a national map because elevation and proximity to water shift the date by weeks over short distances.

If you would rather not look it up, err early. Nothing on this list is harmed by being done a month too soon.

Two things worth doing that are not really maintenance

Look at the roof now, from the ground. Not because autumn damages roofs, but because a roofer will still come out in October. In February they will put a tarp on it and book you for spring, and you will live under the tarp.

Find the drafts on the first cold windy day. This is the only time of year they are easy to locate — you need the temperature difference to feel them. Walk the exterior walls with a lit incense stick and watch where the smoke moves: outlets, the attic hatch, where the floor meets the wall, around window trim. Air sealing costs almost nothing and beats adding insulation on top of leaks, which is the usual instinct and the wrong one.

What the list deliberately does not include

Getting on the roof. Every roof task here is done from the ground with binoculars, or by someone with staging. October roofs are wet in the morning, and falls are the leading cause of death in residential construction.

Anything gas-fitted. The furnace service is on the list as a phone call. Combustion appliances are the category where confidence is more dangerous than neglect.

Winterising an unoccupied house. Draining a whole plumbing system for a house that will sit empty and unheated is a different and much longer procedure than anything here. If that is what you are doing, this is not the list for it.

Nothing here is urgent on the day you print it. The point of the deadlines is that they let you do the work at a comfortable pace instead of doing it badly on the evening of the first hard freeze forecast.

Frequently asked questions

When should I start fall maintenance?

Six weeks before your first hard freeze for anything that needs a contractor, and two weeks before for anything involving water outdoors. Enter your local frost date above and the list dates both deadlines for you. The rest can happen any time the weather is still pleasant enough to be outside.

What is the single most important fall task?

Disconnecting the garden hoses. A hose left attached traps water in the spigot and in the pipe behind it, and that pipe is usually inside the wall. It is thirty seconds of work and it prevents the most common and most expensive freeze failure in a house.

Do I clean the gutters before or after the leaves fall?

After. Cleaning in early October means doing it again in November, and it is the November one that matters — that is the debris that sits in the trough all winter and backs water up under the shingles. If you only do it once, do it once the trees are bare.

Is the annual furnace service actually worth it?

The part worth paying for is the heat exchanger inspection. A cracked exchanger vents combustion gases into the air the house is breathing, it is not visible without dismantling the unit, and it is the reason the service exists. The filter change and the cleaning you could do yourself; that check you could not.

What if I live somewhere that never freezes?

Set the climate to "rarely freezes" and the whole freeze-protection block disappears. What is left is the part that is really about the season rather than the temperature: the roof and gutter work before the wet months, the heating service, the alarms, and the drafts.

Do I need to do any of this if I rent an apartment?

Set the property type to condo or apartment. What remains is short and genuinely yours — the filter, the alarms, the dryer vent, the drafts, and the emergency kit. Everything about the roof, the gutters, the foundation and the outdoor plumbing belongs to whoever owns the building.

Related printables

Work out the quantities first

On squarefootcalcs.com(opens in a new tab), a sister site — same jobs, from the buying-materials end.